Step back several centuries with us in Bhutan, a pristine Buddhist kingdom hidden in the Himalayas. This November, we are going for the first time to this tiny kingdom northeast of India. With a population of only 700,000 and national policy that keeps 70% of the land forested and undeveloped, Bhutan’s biodiversity is some of the richest in the world.
This is a rare trip, far off the usual tourist path. We’ll see monasteries on mountaintops, forests believed to be inhabited by spirits, high meadows covered in rhododendrons and magnolias, and ruddy faced villagers who perform sacred ritual dances and can shoot bows as well as the archers of the middle ages.
Because the local nomads consider mountain peaks to be the sacred home of deities, Bhutan has the highest unclimbed mountains in the world. Most of the people practice Mahayana Buddhism. The national language, Dzongkha, is linguistically a dialect of Tibet. Twenty distinct, unwritten languages are spoken throughout Bhutan. Bhutan’s food, clothing and incredibly hospitable nature also separate Bhutan from its neighbors.
Bhutan opened to the west — to the internet and TV — only a few years ago. It is a Buddhist kingdom whose scholar-king has chosen to consciously preserve the traditional way of life based on Buddhism’s “middle path.” The people still live in exquisite, ancient villages and still base their lives on ancient spiritual practices such as meditation and sacred dance.
The king bases his choices on the concept of “Gross National Happiness.” Decisions are based on choosing a path that balances the needs of man with the powerful spirits of nature.
This is a hiking trip, not a paddling trip. The level is easy to moderate. We’ll be hiking to secluded monasteries, temples and villages. As we hike, we will see some of the world’s most amazing views: panoramic vistas of the Himalayas, high fields, rivers, and hidden valleys. We’ll see festivals such as the Jambay Lha Khang festival, where the dancers perform amazing leaps. We will sleep in guesthouses, eat in farmhouses, and have plenty of time to get to know the hearts and lives of the Bhutanese people.
Each region of Bhutan has its own local flavor and offers something unique. The towns of Paro and Thimphu in the west offer alpine forests and famous monasteries amid modern amenities. Heading past the stunning views from Dochula pass, the valleys of Wandgdi and Punakha are covered with subtropical, broadleaf forest. The dzong (fortress) of Punakha is the most impressive in the country. East of Wangdi is the Phobjikha Valley, the one place the Bhutanese government has forbidden the development of overground electricity so as not to interfere with the flocks of endangered Black-necked Cranes which arrive every winter, migrating from their Tibetan homeland. In the central part of the country is Bumthang, where coniferous forests meet wide valleys. We will experience a beautiful meandering river, herbal hot stone baths, and local epicurean delights.
Dates: NOVEMBER 6-18
Cost: $3650 Land Cost
Flight on Druk Air from Bangkok to Paro – $900
Bhutan Itinerary
This familiarizing tour is designed to introduce you to some aspects of Bhutan that are off the beaten path. Most of the places suggested in this itinerary are not part of the normal tourist trail.
Day 1: Arrival in Paro & Zuri Dzong Hike
Arriving in Paro by Druk Air, the national airline is one of the most spectacular of all mountain flights. Our guide will receive you and drive you to your hotel, which will take about 15 minutes.
Zuri Dzong Hike
Duration: 4-5 hours (depending on time spent in National Museum and Paro) Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Wind through pine forests high above Uma Paro to the pretty grounds of the fortress-like monastery of Zurig Dzong. Traverse across to Ta Dzong, housing Bhutan’s National Museum with magnificent views over the Paro valley. Afterwards, descend upon Rinpung (Paro) Dzong also known as “Fortress on a Heap of Jewels”. The footpath then leads across Paro Chhu (river) via a traditional covered bridge (Nyamai Zam) and then past the main archery ground into Paro town.
Ta Dzong- National Museum
Ta Dzong built in 1951 was once the watch tower for the defense of Rinpung Dzong during inter-valley wars of the 17th century. It was re-established as the National Museum in 1967 and has been rated among the best natural history museums in Asia. It holds a fascinating collection of art, relics, religious thangkha paintings, handicrafts, masks, costumes, armor and Bhutan’s exquisite postage stamps. The museum’s circular shape augments its varied collection displayed over several floors. The visit will provide an insight into the rich and unique cultural heritage and tradition of Bhutan.
Rinpung Dzong
Rinpung Dzong, meaning Fortress on a Heap of Jewels was built in 1646 AD by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal mainly for defense purpose against frequent incursions. Historically, it was an important administrative centre and the seat of many feudal lords and penlops. Today it houses the administrative offices which include the legislative, executive, judicial and religious centre for the people of Paro.
Druk Choeding Lhakhang
This temple in Paro was built in 1525 by Ngawang Cheryl, one of the prince abbots of Riling in Tibet, and an ancestor of the Shabdrung, Ngawang Namgyal. Elevation in Paro: 2350m.
Day 2:
Sangchokhor Monastery Hike
Duration: 4-5 hours (depending on time spent in the Monastery)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Today we will hike to Sangchokhor monastery, which is beautifully located on a hilltop overlooking the Paro valley. It takes about 2-3 hours of hiking uphill to get here. We will enjoy our picnic lunch out here with a spectacular view. After lunch, we will visit the temples and hiking back will take about 2 hours. The car will take care of the drop out and pick up throughout the whole trip. There are also some other decent hikes that you we do in Paro, should you want more hiking days here. They are: Taktshang monastery Hike, Kila Gömba, Bja-karpo and Dongkala.
Day 3:
Transfer to Punakha Drive time: 4 hours + stops
Today, our drive to Punakha will take about 4 hours via Dochula pass (3050m) through wonderful forest of rhododendron and magnolia. From the pass, weather allowing, you have panoramic view of the Eastern Himalayan peaks, among them Mt. Masagang (7158m) and our highest peak, Mt. Gangkar Puensum. Passing the magnificent group of 109 Chortens (stupas) at Dochula, the Druk Wangyel (or Great Victory) Chortens, the road curls its way down into the relative lowlands of the Punakha Valley. Before Thimphu was made the permanent capital of Bhutan, Punakha was the Winter Capital for 300 years because of its more temperate climate. The Je Khenpo (leader of Bhutan’s religious order) and his council of monks still come to pass the winter months here.
En route we have time to stretch our legs with a short walk across rice paddies to Chhimi Lhakhang a half an hour walk across a local village and rice fields from the road head. The temple was built in 1499 and is located on a hillock in the centre of the volley. It is dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kunley, who in the late 15th century used humor, songs and outrageous behavior to dramatize his teachings and hence is also known as the ―Devine Mad Man. It is widely believed that childless couples who pray at this temple are usually blessed with children.
Next, we have an evening exploration of the massive architectural structure of the 17th-century Punakha Dzong. Punakha Dzong or Punthang Dechen Phodrang, was strategically built at the confluence, the river island between the mighty Phochu and Mochu Rivers in Punakha. While the rivers provided natural defense against invaders, it did not obstruct the view of the Dzong. The imposing structure, the biggest and the most magnificent of its kind at that particular point in time, was visible from all four sides. The construction of Punakha Dzong on the strategic location was completed in 1637 AD and it represented the supreme flowering Bhutanese art and architecture.
Elevation in Punakha: 1350m.
Day 4:
Chorten Nebu Hike
Duration: 4-5 hours (depending on time spent in the Monastery)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Chorten Nebu
40 minutes shuttle to Kabjisa trail head, and 3 hours hike uphill will reach you to Chorten Nebu on a hilltop in the Punakha Valley. It is a beautiful walk to a lovely village surrounded by orange groves to a temple, which dates back to the time of ‘The Divine Madman’ Drukpa Kunley.
The Monastery of Chorten Nebu, built in the eighteenth century is a little known treasure, with its magnificent statue of Maitreya (the future Buddha) and fine images of the great lamas of the Drukpa Lineage. According to legend, this magical spot was once a dense forest inhabited by evil spirits. One day, the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley arrived here when all the demons were gathered together in meeting. He hurled a blazing log into the gathering and all the evil spirits were scorched to death. The great oak tree outside the monastery is said to have grown out of the blazing log that the Divine Madman threw and interestingly, its bark is still dark, burnt down. People use the bark to bring them good-luck talisman.
In 2005 the Monastery started housing poor orphans from the nearby village and founded a small Buddhist educational institution for these little monks, a place where the children can study both traditional Buddhist scriptures and texts, and also learning Western subjects such as English, math and science in order to be equipped to survive in the modern world, whether as a monk or a lay person.
Hike back on a different trail through rice fields to the road head for a 10 minutes ride to the trail leading to Khamsum Yulley Namgyel Chorten.
Khamsum Yulley Namgyel Chorten - a delightful 3-story chorten that looks down on the upper Punakhan Valley. The chorten was consecrated in 1999 and built at the behest of her majesty Queen Ashi Tshering Yandon Wangchuck in order to “remove negative forces and promote peace, stability and harmony in the changing world”.
The views of the valley and the surrounding snow-capped mountains are stunning, the setting of the chorten is idyllic, the atmosphere tranquil and the interior artwork depicting the teaching of Dudjom Rinpoche is magnificent. Linger long at this chorten relaxing and simply appreciating the harmonious beauty of the location.
Day 5:
Hike to the Village on Treasure Hill
Duration: 4-5 hours (depending on time spent in the Talo and Nobang Communities)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Hiking to Talo Nobgang, the village of the present queen mothers, is another good way of spending an extra day in this lush subtropical valley. The hike up to Nobgang village can be a good day’s work. The village of Talo (altitude 2,800 m) which is scattered along the hill slopes is known for its cleanliness and hygiene among Punakha villages. Talo is the seat of the mind incarnations of the Zhabdrung. Talo Sangnacholing Dzong is built on a plateau and has majestic view of surrounding villages. The beautiful farm houses of the village have its own flower gardens and on the hill slope corns and sweet peas are grown in abundance. We will spend some time the Nobgang and Talo villages visiting farm house and meeting families.
The people of Talo produce maximum corn, which is harvested in the month of July and August. The women here are particularly known for their beauty. If time permits, we can also hike further to Daleda monastery.
Day 6.
Transfer to Bumthang
Drive time: 7 hours+ stops
Today we will have a fairly long drive to Chume but the scenery is stunning and enthralling. Coming in from the west, we will pass open yak pastures, winding river valleys, passing through villages and yak herders’ camps, and through elevations that range from high alpine mountains to semi-tropical forests. The highest pass,Yotong La, is approximately 3500m. We will make occasional stops for short breaks and taking pictures. Lunch will be at the Chendebji Café. En route, we will visit the beautiful Dzong of Trongsa and the recently established National Museum.
Trongsa Dzong represents Bhutan’s link with its historical monarchy since it is the ancestral home of the first king of Bhutan, Ugyen Wangchuk. This is also the investiture site for future kings ascending the Golden Throne of Bhutan. (The Fifth King of Bhutan was recently handed power from his father but won’t ascend the throne until mid 2008.) Trongsa Dzong also represents the very best opportunity to capture the true essence of Bhutanese monastic and parliamentary architecture.
Ta Dzong or the watch tower which once guarded Trongsa Dzong from internal rebellion stands impressively above the Dzong and provides visitors an insight into the historical significance of Trongsa in Bhutan’s history. It has now been renovated and transformed in a museum.
Elevation in Chume: 2850 metres.
Day 7:
Chumey Valley Hike & Prakar Drubchoed Festival
Duration: 4-5 hours (depending on time spent in the Monastery)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Today we will hike to Tharpaling one of the most beautiful and holiest place in Bhutan. Tharpaling monastery (3600m) is located on the northern ridge, dominating the whole Chumey valley. It will take 3 hours to reach there and scenery is very beautiful. Tharpaling is considered the most important of the eight religious foundations that the Nyingma master Lonchenpa also called honorifically Kunkhyen Loncen Rabjam (1308-1363), built in Bhutan, where he was in self-exile from Tibet for ten years. Tharpaling was built in 1352 and restored several times.
After lunch walk down to Domkhar Dzong , visit the village and join the Chumey Community in the Prakar Drubchoed Festivities.
Prakar Festival
Prakar, or Pra, is a picturesque village in the Chumey valley, perched on a small plateau located at the curve of the river. The village composed of seven large stone houses, has easy access on foot from the main road (10mn walk). A feeder road has also connected the village since 2006.
Prakar Ngatshang is a complex of temples and a mansion (ngatshang) which belongs to the lineage of religious lords, as a reminder of the time when the village of Prakar was the seat of the lords of Chumey Valley.
The temple is the venue of the important festival of Prakhar, durchoe, celebrating the anniversary of the death of Thugse Dawa GyeltshenThe dancers and musicians are monks from the nearby monastery of Nyimalung,
The whole Chumey valley community attends the festival. See beautiful weavings as women wear their finest kiras and men their best ghos. The smaller Community Festivals like the Prakar Community Festival are often more interesting as visitors get a close and better perspective of a local festival that provides fascinating insight into local beliefs.
Day 8:
Transfer to Jakar & Jambay Lhakhang Fire Festival
Drive Time: 1 hour
Transfer to Jakar town takes just less than an hour. So we will have time to visit all the renowned temples and monuments located in and around Jakar.
Jambay Lhakhang Festival
Today is the privilege to witness the sacred and ancient Jambay Lhakhang Drup festival – one of the most spectacular festivals in Bhutan. Watch the locals in their festive mood, performing many ritual dances beside the monastery. The five-day-long festival features a different dance program every day. The dances are subdivided into three categories: those that are intended to give moral instruction; those that are designed to drive away evil spirits; and those that celebrate the Buddhist faith in its many guises. As fascinating as the dances themselves are the activities of the local people who flock to the festival from far and wide, dressed in rich, vibrant and colorful Bhutanese outfits.
Day 9:
Jakar Valley Hike
Walking is certainly the most pleasant way to explore this magical valley, full of peace and beauty. Three to four hours of walk in the valley will take us past numerous chortens, Mani walls and prayer flags, all bearing witness to the importance of Buddhism. Across the valley lie many of the Kingdom’s most auspicious and highly revered houses of worship and ancient monasteries, many decorated with still vibrant ancient wall paintings and richly adorned altars, all with colorful, mystical histories.
Religious Sites
Jambay Lhakhang is a sacred monastery built in the 7th century by the Tibetan King Sogtsen Gampo. It is one of the 108 monasteries built by him to subdue evil spirits in the Himalayan Region.
Kurjey Lhakhang is another sacred monastery which comprises three temples. The one on the right was built in 1652 on the rock face where Guru Padma Sambhava mediated in the 8th century. The second temple is built on the site of a cave containing a rock with the imprint of the Guru’s body and is therefore considered the holies. The third temple as built by the Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck. These three temples are surrounded by a wall with 108 chortens.
Tamzhing Lhakhang is located opposite Kurjey Lhakhang on the other side of the river, was founded in 1501 by Terton Pema Lingpa. The Lhakhang has ancient religious paintings such as the 1000 Buddha’s and 21 Taras. The temple was restored at the end of the 19th century.
Lhodrak Kharchhu Monastery is a more recent addition to the pantheon of monasteries and is located above the town. The abbot, Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche, is a very highly respected teacher in Bhutan and speaks English.
Landmarks:
Jakar Dzong the fortress was originally constructed in 1667, but rebuilt after being severely damaged in an earthquake in 1897, is one of the largest and most impressive in Bhutan and houses the administrative and monastic offices for the Bumthang district.
Wangdichholing Palace, built in 1857, the palace was the principal residence of the first king of a united Bhutan and was also used by his two successors. It is an unassuming structure, lacking the ramparts and protective walls which became features of later palaces. Currently, the palace is unoccupied and can be visited.
We then have time in the evening to once again visit Jambay Lhakhang, to witness the last closing ceremony of the festivities or you may rest off the day relaxing around the property, enjoying the facilities or perhaps trying a therapy such as the traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath which the hotel is distinctively known for.
Elevation in Jakar: 2600m
Day 10:
Transfer to Phobjikha
Drive Time: 6-7 hours + stops
Today, our drive is backtracking and the stunning views will refresh your memory of our journey in. Phobjikha valley (2890 m) is one of the few winter homes of the black-necked cranes, which migrate to Bhutan from the Tibetan Plateau. When they come in November it’s not unusual to see as many as 100 to 200 cranes in the valley at one time. This wide valley settlement in Wangdi district is sparsely populated with small villages and rustic accommodations, all of which offer unparalleled peace and tranquillity.
Elevation in Phobjikha: 2890 metres.
Day 11:
Phobjikha Valley Hike & Transfer to Thimphu
Today morning we will do our hiking in the valley of the Cranes. There is a nature trail that has been created by the RSPN, a non-profit organisation, which looks after the cranes. We can take that trail and also visit the temple of Gangtey. The Gangtey temple, situated on a hill in Phobjikha valley, was first founded in 1613 by Pema Thrinle, the grandson and also the reincarnation of Pema ’Lingpa.
Afternoon: Transfer to Thimphu
Drive time: 5 hours + stops
Day 12:
Site seeing in Thimphu and transfer to Paro
Drive time: 1 hour + stops
Thimphu sightseeing may include the Post Office, The National Textile Museum, The Folk Heritage Museum, the national Memorial Chorten, The National Institute of Traditional Medicine, Takin Preserve, and the Changlimithang Stadium
After breakfast our first excursion today will be to the Post Office.
Post office
While bare-footed couriers still deliver the mail in many remote regions of Bhutan, our postage stamps remain world-renowned in the philatelic community. Colorful, creative and collectible, Bhutan’s stamp launch in the 1960s of the world’s most innovative stamps not only caused a sensation each time they were released, but more importantly were valued by Bhutan as its chief revenue producer for many years.
The National Textile Museum: showcases a range of beautiful Bhutanese textiles. The museum has exhibitions on six major themes:
- wrap pattern weaves
- weft pattern weaves
- role of textile in religion
- achievements in textile arts
- textiles from indigenous fibers
- the Royal collection
The museum introduces visitors to major weaving techniques, styles of local dress and the variety of textiles.
The Folk Heritage Museum: also known as Phelchey Toenkhim, is a resorted three-storied traditional building which dates back to mid 19th century. It provides a fascinating insight into the traditional Bhutanese farm house and rural past through exhibits and documentation of rural life to present:
- a typical Bhutanese rural setting
- a traditional water mill (with mill stones that date back more than 150 years)
- traditional style kitchen garden with vegetables
- the famous traditional hot stone bath complement the museum building and the exhibits within
The National Memorial Chorten: This large impressive monument with its golden spire was built in 1974 to honor the memory of our third King, His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (1928 – 1972). Built by his mother Her Majesty the late Queen Ashi Phuntsho Choden Wangchuck, the whitewashed chorten is decorated with richly carved annexes facing the four directions, and features elaborate mandalas, and statues. There are numerous religious paintings and complex tantric statues housed inside reflecting both peaceful and wrathful aspects of Buddhist deities.
The memorial chorten, with its sun-catching golden finial, is one of the most visible religious structures in Thimphu, and for the local Bhutanese people it is the focus of daily worship. Throughout the day people circumambulate the chorten, whirl the large red prayer wheels and pray in the adjacent shrine. The early morning is particularly tranquil as elderly people shuffle in and spruced-up kids on their way to school whiz in and out to pay homage.
Paper Factory
Next visit the paper factory by the river where freshly made sheets dry in the sun and new batches of daphne bark boil in the cauldron, ready to be pulped in an ingenious home-made hand-propelled contraption. This is a small but flourishing business, employing local Bhutanese people with little pressure on the land, for in Bhutan nature is generous but never abused.
The National Institute of Traditional Meidicine
In old times Bhutan was referred to ―Lho Menjong‖ or the Southern Land of Medicines. Rich herbal medicines are prepared here from herbs that grow in abundance in Bhutan. The institute also imparts the art of herbal medicines to would be practitioners. It was established in 1988 and visitors are most welcome to get a check up by any one of the Bhutanese Dungtshos.
Changlimithang National Stadium
Spend some time at Changlimithang National Stadium watching people compete in the an archery tournament/match. The stadium houses tennis and squash courts, a soccer field, a cricket ground, 2 archery fields, and Bhutan’s Olympic headquarters. Events are free and open to everyone.
One thing that makes the archery matches here so fun to watch is the shouts and taunts one team will throw at the other. No need to remain quiet at all, even as an archer is taking aim. When the target is hit, a little victory song and dance are requisite, sometimes with a response by the other team. The songs and dances are traditional, hundreds of years old.
Takin Preserve houses the rare national animal of Bhutan. The Takin is listed by international conservation agencies as a vulnerable species and it is a rare animal found only in Bhutan, Nepal, Burma and China. The Takin is chosen as the National Animal of Bhutan for its uniqueness and its association with the country’s religious history and mythology.
Evening: Transfer to Paro
Day 13:
Departure Bangkok
15 minutes drive to the Airport.
